Ask The Doctor - The Laundry Doctor - thelaundrydoctor.com


Cold on Carrol Glued to the Newsletter Sizzled on Summit Down on Dayton Avenue Shade Tree Mechanic Smothered In Stains Want Bright without Fright	Agitated on Ashland Playing With Turkeys These Colors DID Run Wishy Washy Suds are Suds Sad, But Important Making a Smaller Footprint	LaundryDad Steamed Itching to Know Frugal but Fastidious Foiled by Oil In Disbelief Cowhide Cowgirl


Cold on Carrol

	Dear Laundry Doctor, While grocery shopping recently, I picked up a major-label laundry detergent formulated for cold water. It claims that it can get clothes just as clean in cold water, thus you can be more environmentally and money-conscious. My Mom says this claim is all wet and that the only way to get clothes really clean is to wash them in the warmest water possible. What do you say? Cold on Carrol You and Mom are both right. Let me explain… All things being equal, the warmer the water, the cleaner the wash. In fact, if you use very warm water, just about any detergent will clean your laundry nicely. That being said, detergents formulated for cold water are indeed more effective at cleaning garments in cold water, because they contain a higher level of chemical surfactants – the “lubricating” chemicals that cause dirt to be released from the fabric – than do regular detergents. It is also important to note that according to the standards set forth by the fabric care industry, “cold” water is 85 degrees. If you live in Minnesota, the “cold” water tap isn’t going to produce anything near 85 degrees without a little mixing from the hot side. You certainly can expect a nice, clean wash using a detergent formulated for cold water, especially if you bump up the Minnesota cold water to lukewarm. You can also get a clean wash with an inferior detergent and warmer water. Either way, it is always important to pre-treat heavily soiled or stained garments for optimal results. I’ll leave it to you and Mom to work it out. Hopefully for both of you it will all come out in the wash!

Top	Glued to the Newsletter

Dear Laundry Doctor,
The holiday season is here, I thought it might help your readers if you discussed the removal of gooey, tacky substances from fabrics. For example, my sister and her family always cut their own, fresh Christmas tree. It is lovely and green and wonderfully-scented, but it invariably drips sap all over the cotton tree skirt I made for them in 1999. Sis never quite gets the sap out, so the spots are accumulating. My brother-in-law is the neighborhood go-to guy for assembling toys, knick-knacks and furniture. He is also known for getting glue on his face, hands, pants and shirt. Finally, I remember my neighbor’s chagrin when the candles in her heirloom menorah left wax blotches all over her beautiful blue table runner. What advice can you give that would benefit these folks and others like them who find themselves in a sticky situation?
Glued to the Newsletter

Yes indeed, sticky stains are in a class by themselves, and you hit on three common holiday culprits: sap, glue and wax. Let’s first remember that lots of holiday fabrics are very delicate, so we want to try the gentlest approach possible to cleaning them. This can be difficult, because sticky stains can require chemical as well as mechanical methods.

Tree sap should respond to citrus-based cleaner such as Simple Green. Make a pad with a clean, white absorbent rag, and cover it with a layer or two of paper towel. Place the fabric stain-side down over the paper towel and blot the cleaner onto the back of the stain. Next, use a soft-bristled toothbrush to work the stain through – think of pushing the sap out of the fibers – onto the paper towel. Launder as usual. For very tough sap stains, and/or stains on more resilient fabrics, you might try a product such as Goof Off or WD-40 applied directly to the stain, followed by laundering.

Candle wax requires a similar approach. First, don’t touch the wax until it cools and hardens. Then, gently work a dull butter knife under the wax and pop as much of it as you can from the surface of the fabric. If residue remains, make a pad with a clean rag and paper towels as for the tree sap. Place the fabric stain-side down on the pad, and slowly and gently pour boiling water through the wax spot. Launder using a regular, ph-neutral household detergent such as Tide at the hottest temperature the fabric will allow.

Household glue such as Elmer’s will respond to lighter fluid applied with a cotton swab. Be sure to test for colorfastness on a hidden part of the garment.

Be especially careful to assure that all sap, wax or glue is gone from the fabric before you place it in your dryer, or the heat of the dryer can transfer the sticky residue to subsequent loads of laundry and become the unwanted gift that keeps on giving. If you are really stumped by a sticky stain, or if the above methods don’t completely remove it, consult your local laundry professional. Seasons greetings to you and yours, and best wishes for a happy, healthy 2008!

Top	Sizzled on Summit

Dear Laundry Doctor
We’ve just returned from a neighborhood barbecue. Help! My kid’s khaki shorts are covered with grass stains, my husband’s polo shirt is spattered with grease spots, and no one in the family escaped without a condiment (mustard, ketchup, barbecue sauce…) somewhere on his or her person. What’s the best way to treat these stains?
Sincerely, Sizzled on Summit

To begin, let’s talk in general terms about stains. For simple, fresh stains, all-purpose stain removers like Shout or Stain Stick will generally work. The longer a stain has to set in a fabric, or the larger and more penetrating it is, the more challenging it will be to remove. For really tough stains, skip the all-purpose stain removers and go on the offensive. Here are some tips for those especially tough stains. As always, if you have a fine-washable, it’s best to consult your local cleaner.

Grass stains, like most plant stains, are acidic. You may recall from chemistry class that like removes like. A great acidic treatment for acidic stains is good old white vinegar. Simply use a clean cloth to blot the stain with full-strength vinegar, allow the vinegar to work for ten or fifteen minutes, then launder as usual. Back to chemistry class. Stain removal requires a chemical reaction to take place, so it’s very important to allow the stain remover to work. Often people are unsuccessful with stain removal, because they don’t allow time for the reaction to take place.

As for the grease…Two excellent products for removing greasy, oily stains are Formula 409 – it cuts grease in the kitchen, and it will indeed work on your clothes – and Simple Green. The latter is a citrus-based solvent, and citrus is extremely tough on grease. I recommend these products over a commercial stain treatment like the aforementioned Shout or Stain Stick, because they are formulated specifically for breaking down grease and oils. As with any treatment, after you spray the stain with 409 or Simple Green, wait ten or fifteen minutes, then launder the garment as recommended by its manufacturer.

Condiments can be especially difficult to remove, because they contain a mixture of acids, oils, and proteins. An especially effective method for these stains is a good, long soak. Use a bucket, dishpan or sink filled with warm water and a good detergent. While it is hard to find anymore, Biz is an excellent choice for presoaking, because it has enzymes that are great at breaking down protein-based stains. Dissolve the Biz or other detergent in the warm water, soak the stained garments for an hour or so, being careful to completely submerge and saturate the stains, then launder as usual.

Summertime presents many opportunities to experiment with stain removal products and techniques! Enjoy those barbecues and tag football games secure in the knowledge that you can tackle the laundry challenges that come with them.

Top	Down on Dayton Avenue

Dear Laundry Doctor:
Now that springtime is here, I want to wash my down comforter. My brother told me I can safely do this in my own washing machine, but I want to be certain. Can you provide some tips?
Down on Dayton Avenue

Your down comforter can indeed be cleaned, and you can do it yourself, as long as you have a two to five load capacity, front-loading machine. A front-load washer will tumble the comforter on itself, which provides better cleaning action and prevents the damage that could be caused by the agitator in a top-loading machine. If you are equipped with such a washer, follow these simple tips:

Select a gentle cycle.

Use a detergent that is designed for or works well in cold water. A mild dishwashing detergent may work well also.

Measure it the same as laundry detergent, using between a quarter and a half-cup, depending upon how soiled the comforter is. You may over-suds a bit, but dishwashing detergent is gentler than most store-bought laundry detergent! Do not use any bleach or fabric softener.

Toss three or four clean tennis balls into the washer as well, to help balance the load. Down has a tendency to shift and break up its quilting in the wash cycle, but the tennis balls will greatly reduce this risk.

Wash the comforter.

Toss the comforter, along with the tennis balls, into the dryer. The tennis balls will help fluff up the down as the comforter dries.

Dry the comforter on low for as long as it takes. It may take as long as 90 minutes before the whole piece is dry.

One final hint: Only a couple of new, high-end front loading washing machines have temperature sensors in them. The “cold” setting in Minnesota is from 40 to 50 degrees in the winter months. Cold water detergents work best in water that is 60 to 80 degrees, so in the cold months, don’t use the “cold” water setting on your washer. The “warm” water setting will come out in the “cold” range.

Top	Agitated on Ashland

Dear Laundry Doctor:
The time has come for me to replace my washing machine. I am confused. Every time I go shopping, the salespeople push the front-loading washers as the way to go, but they are so much more expensive than top loaders! Are they really worth the extra cost?
Sincerely, Agitated on Ashland.

In a word, yes! Front loading washing machines will provide you savings in a number of ways. First, they are much more energy efficient than top loaders. The average top loading machine uses about 40 gallons of water to wash a load of clothes. A front loader has a much greater capacity, and can do a much larger load, using about half the water and detergent, not to mention less energy. The front loader will also save wear and tear on your laundry. Because there is no agitator – the laundry tumbles on itself to provide the soil-loosening action – your collars and cuffs will not fray and your fabrics will not be worn thin by the wash cycle. Your laundry will get cleaner and wear longer. The machine itself will also last longer than your top loader. Today’s front loading machines are made using stainless steel and plastic parts, while top loader parts are generally made from ferrous metals which are susceptible to corrosion from the chemicals in laundry detergents and additives.

I will caution you that even though a front loader can handle large loads, you should still wash your big quilts, comforters and blankets in a commercial front loader at your local laundromat, and you should never, ever put a rug into your home front-loader. Dirt and pebbles trapped in the rug can damage the machine. Still, for the majority of your laundry needs, the front loader is the way to go, and the savings to you in energy efficiency, water usage, longevity of the machine, and time will compensate for the higher up-front cost in a short time. I think you will be delighted in switching to a front loading washing machine!

Top	Playing With Turkeys

Dear Laundry Doctor,
I hosted a small but lively dinner party last evening, setting the table with the same linens I had planned to use for Thanksgiving. Help! One of my guests was goofing off and spilled an entire glass of red wine. It soaked the tablecloth, two napkins, and the sleeve of his white shirt, and it dripped on the chair pad and my carpet! Not that I care about his white shirt, but if you have some good tips for removing red wine stains, I might pass them on to him as I try to save my tablecloth, napkins, upholstery and carpet. After all, the season is upon us, and I’m sure he’d be thankful for any advice. I know I would!
Signed, Playing With Turkeys

Tell the Turkey his white shirt and your table linens, upholstery and carpet have a fighting chance. As you know, red wine, like coffee and tea, is a tough stain. It’s always best to treat these stains as soon as possible; you’ll get your best results within 24 hours.

A couple of issues back, we discussed stains in general. You may recall the good ol’ stain rule that like removes like. Because red wine is acidic, you need an acidic stain treatment, and your best bet is plain white household vinegar. Place your stained tablecloth and napkins on some clean, white rags. Using another clean, white rag, gently blot the stains with full-strength vinegar. Do not rub at the stain, as this can pull the fabric apart. You should start to see the stains coming away on the old rags on which you placed the tablecloth.

If the stain is not completely removed by blotting with vinegar, mix a solution of mild detergent (like Dawn dishwashing liquid) with hydrogen peroxide. Use about 20% detergent and 80% hydrogen peroxide. Once again, blot – don’t rub. Hydrogen peroxide is a good bleaching agent that is often color safe. Just be sure to test the detergent/hydrogen peroxide solution on a hidden spot before you attack the wine stain. For good measure, you can spray the blotted spot with a stain pre-treatment like Shout or Spray ‘n’ Wash. This optimizes the enzyme action of the detergent in the wash cycle. Launder the table linens according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

The blotting method, using the like removes like rule, also works well for upholstery and carpet. Just be sure to test it on a hidden spot first. When the stain is removed from your chair pad and carpet, blot them with some fresh, clean water to remove any residue, then blot them with clean, white towels or an absorbent sponge to remove as much moisture as possible before allowing them to air dry.

If the Turkey will be on your Thanksgiving guest list, I recommend you let him bring the wine, and if he’s reading this, a nice, fresh autumn bouquet for your table! Happy Holidays to you and yours, and bon apetit!

Top	These Colors DID Run

Dear Laundry Doctor,
I am so upset! I just washed a brand-new red polo shirt – I followed the manufacturer’s laundering instructions to the letter – and the fabric is covered with what looks like bleach spots! I hardly ever even use bleach, and I don’t keep it close to the washing machine, because I don’t want to run the risk of accidentally damaging a garment. How could this have happened? What do I do now?
Signed, These Colors DID Run

Boy, I feel your pain. This “mysterious bleach spot phenomenon” has become a lot more common in recent years. Let me explain why, and then let’s talk about your options.

In clothing manufacturers’ continuing quest to produce items more cheaply, there have been some interesting evolutions in the garment industry. For example, in some cases, manufacturers do not dye the yarn before it is woven into fabric. Rather, they weave the fabric or make the garment, then apply the dye. They also use cheaper dyes. While this results in a production cost savings, it often produces a fabric that is less colorfast. Incidentally, when you see a garment advertised as being “yarn-dyed”, that is a good thing. It means the fabric was constructed with yarns that were dyed prior to being woven, thus they will be more resistant to bleeding and fading.

In your case, your first washing resulted in “bleach” spots. You are right – you probably didn’t get any bleach on the polo shirt at all. The spots either resulted from your shirt coming into contact with some other common household cleaner – the inferior dye was unable to withstand it without running – or there were simply spots on the shirt where the dye did not adhere properly. Recently, I had a customer in the Laundromat who was washing some brand new bath towels for the first time. They came out of the washing machine with the same kind of “bleach” spots you mentioned. She assumed there was some kind of residual bleach in the machine. I explained the evolution of cheap fabric dying just as I’ve explained it to you and suggested she return the towels to the retailer where she purchased them. She did, and received a full refund. Moreover, she was told that the retailer had experienced a lot of similar problems with that brand of towel. Unfortunately for us consumers, some manufacturers and/or retailers are simply willing to run the risk of using a cheaper dye process and producing/selling a lower-quality product, because their market research has proven that only a certain percentage of customers will actually return the items.

So I suggest you return your polo shirt to the store where you bought it and explain what happened. Hopefully, they will stand behind their product and refund your money. If not, consider keeping the polo shirt to wear while gardening, changing your oil, or painting your siding. Best of luck to you!

Top	Wishy Washy

Dear Laundry Doctor
I will soon be purchasing a new washing machine. Everyone I know seems very high on those front loading machines, but I just don’t see how they can get the clothes clean with so little water. Can you explain their benefits, please?
Sincerely, Wishy Washy

I get the same question all the time at the laundry. Front loading machines can actually get laundry cleaner, make garments last longer, and benefit the environment! Here’s how. To get clothes clean, you need cleaning solution to loosen dirt and encapsulate it so it doesn’t adhere itself again. A top load washer does that by filling the tub with around 20 gallons of water diluting your detergent and its ability to loosen soil and encapsulate. If loaded properly the agitator in the top load washer circulates the water and detergent through the garments. If properly loaded, garments will be floating freely in a top load washer. (More often the washer is overloaded and the agitator ends up beating on the garments that are closest to it, causing excessive wear - think about Grandma and her washboard.) After the initial wash cycle, the top loader will drain and fill again with another 20 gallons of water (the rinse cycle), swish it around, drain it and spin it, and the load is done.

A front load washer uses less than 5 gallons of water in the wash cycle and uses half the detergent. A front loader uses less water and a concentrated detergent, plus the action of tumbling the clothes on themselves. High-efficiency detergents are formulated to rinse more thoroughly, assuring that all the dirt and residual detergent is removed. Next front load washers do multiple rinses, usually around 8 gallons each, removing the detergent and soil. Then the front loader spins the clothes so thoroughly they are nearly dry at the end of the wash cycle. Your garments get less detergent buildup, and because they tumble against each other, rather than being agitated as with a top loader, and because they can be dried for less time – or even air dried, they last longer and look fresher. By using less water to wash and less energy for heat and air to dry, you are reducing your carbon footprint and benefiting the environment! Front loading machines really are the way to go! Happy shopping.

Top	Shade Tree Mechanic

Dear Laundry Doctor
I had to work on my old car yesterday (again), and I got a lot of grease on my favorite sweat shirt and a pretty good pair of jeans. I ordered a delivery pizza, so I could keep on working, so I also have some nice red sauce in the mix. Suggestions?
Sincerely, Shade Tree Mechanic

Don’t underestimate the power of a good old soak. I recommend that every household have a 5 gallon container on hand in the laundry room, so they can mix a soaking solution. As long as the solution is properly prepared with the right ingredients, soaking is gentle on clothes and very effective for removing stains. A good soaking solution contains a detergent and a bleach. When I say bleach, I don’t mean chlorine bleach. All chlorine does is deteriorate the fabric. Safe bleaches are products like Oxi-Clean or Biz. These are oxygenated bleaches, rather than chlorinated bleaches, and Biz even has enzymes to attack stains. For oily or greasing stains, you might include some liquid dishwashing detergent like Dawn.

Make your soaking solution using the warmest water possible. Add a couple of ounces of laundry detergent, a couple of ounces of oxygenated bleach, and if you need to remove grease or oil, add about 2 tablespoons of liquid dishwashing detergent. Be sure the chemicals are well-mixed before placing the garment in the soaking solution. Allow the garment to soak overnight, then launder the next day as you would normally wash the garment. If you still see the stain when you take the garment out of the soak, its OK - you can still launder. The soaking loosens the stain and the washing machine cycle will provide the mechanical action to complete the removal. If you still see the stain after the garment comes out of the machine, you may have to repeat the soaking step. Don’t dry the garment until the stain is removed or the stain may be set in.

There are lots of great pre-treatments out there, but the laundry and cleaning products you have on hand, along with some nice, extra-warm water and a little time can produce outstanding results and prolong the life of your favorite clothes! In fact, in your case, it sounds like that sweatshirt may outlive your car. Good luck! And don’t forget to visit my web site: www.thelaundrydoctor.com for more tips on tackling the tough stains, or ask the Laundry Doctor a question.

Top	Suds are Suds

Dear Laundry Doctor
The other day I read a tip in a magazine for getting clothes their brightest. It said to be sure and use laundry detergent and not laundry soap. I thought they were the same thing. What’s the difference and why is detergent better?
Signed, Suds are Suds

Great question, and one that lets us explore laundry evolution a bit. Laundry soap was the precursor to laundry detergent. The active ingredients in soap include a combination of fats or oils, like tallow (beef fat) and/or coconut oil and alkali. The ingredients did a great job of breaking down dirt and getting it out of the fibers of the laundry. But over time, soap left a yellow or grayish buildup on clothes making them appear dingy. That’s because the dirt was released into the wash water where it went into solution with the soap residue and re-adhered to the garments.

Detergent contains the same kinds of active ingredients as soap, but detergent also includes a surfactant, which is an agent that reduces the surface tension of liquids so that the liquid spreads out, rather than collecting in droplets. The surfactant permits better penetration of the active ingredients, and it encapsulates the dirt allowing it to be carried away by the rinse water rather than clinging to the clothes. This allows the colors and textures of the fabric to come through and greatly extends the life of the garment.

But don’t throw out your laundry soap!!! Soaps are still quite reliable and effective for use in treating stains. In fact, laundry soap when rubbed on a sweaty collar or underarm stain will do a better job of cleaning than pre-treatments like Shout and Spray’n’Wash. The chemistry of laundry soap works very well on these kinds of “people stains” that are oil-and-sweat-based. A combination of rubbing the garment with soap, soaking it in warm water and soap, then laundering it in detergent will produce great results.

Another word about detergents…I’m sure you’ve noted the trend toward concentrated detergents. The American consumer has traditionally reflected a “more is better” attitude. (Super Size me, anyone?) The extra fluid we used to get in those big bottles of detergent was water. Concentrated detergents allow for less packaging, less plastic, less waste, lower transportation costs, and take up less shelf space to sell more product! The key thing to remember about concentrated detergents is that you don’t need a lot to do a great job. Think of it this way: Most of what we wash simply needs freshening. Use the minimum amount of detergent (or even a little less) and you’ll be very satisfied. For heavily soiled clothes, you can employ the use of laundry additives, still use the minimum amount of detergent, and get a nice, clean wash. We’ll talk about laundry additives next time. For now, keep your detergent and soap handy, and visit www.thelaundrydoctor.com for more tips! Thanks for writing.

Top	Smothered in Stains

Dear Laundry Doctor
I have three kids, ages two, four and seven. The laundry they generate a considerable amount of laundry, and there are stains, from ketchup, to orange juice, to ground-in dirt, on almost every item. I am at my wits end pre-treating stains, especially when I have to spot-check each little tee shirt and pair of sweat pants. If I miss something, it is set in for life. Help!
Signed, Smothered in Stains

You can save yourself a lot of trouble by making the good old pre-soaking an ongoing tool in your laundry repertoire. Get yourself one of those five-gallon plastic buckets. You can pick them up at your local hardware store, usually in the paint department. Fill it about three-quarters full with hot water, and add one of the following:

One fluid ounce of Dawn dishwashing liquid for greasy stains One capful of Wisk for sweaty, grimy stains and ground-in dirt One half-scoop of Biz for general organic stains like grass, food, juice, blood, etc.

Mix the solution up and add your dirty clothes. Then walk away. Feel free to let them soak for a few hours, or even overnight. When you are ready to do the wash, just dump the whole bucket into the machine, add a little of your favorite detergent (less than usual, because you already have some detergent in the soaking solution), and launder as usual. Keep your bucket handy, and when the kids doff those stained clothes, just drop them into the soaking solution. Hope this simplifies your life! For lots of other tips on making the laundry chore simple and fun, visit www.thelaundrydoctor.com Thanks for the question!

Top	Sad, But Important

Dear Laundry Doctor
Rather than a question, I have something I would like to share through your column. Last week, my sister and her family lost their home to a fire. Fortunately, no one was home at the time, so no one was injured. Still, the house and everything in it is gone – a total loss. The fire began in their clothes dryer. To avoid a tragedy like this, the fire department recommended the following tips:

Never, ever leave a dryer unattended. Don’t leave home with the dryer on, and don’t go to bed with the dryer on.

Clean your lint screen after every use, and clean the dryer’s vent tube every week using a vacuum cleaner to suction out the lint that can collect there. (I found out firsthand that if you haven’t done this for awhile, you might have to actually pull the lint out by hand, and then vacuum. Scary how much lint can build up in the vent!)

Avoid plastic vent tubing. The fire department recommends aluminum tubing, which is more expensive, but well worth it in terms of safety. I replaced my plastic tubing this week.

Don’t store anything in or around your dryer (or any other appliances!) Before my sister’s fire, I used my dryer as a handy place to stack clean clothes (flammable!) and even laundry detergent and other cleaning products. Also, the floor around my family’s laundry room gets quite cluttered. Keep the space on and around the dryer neat.

Avoid drying anything flammable. Occasionally, I’ll wash a load of oily rags. Let those air-dry! Don’t put them in the dryer.

If you notice smoke coming from your dryer, don’t attempt to put the fire out yourself. Get yourself and your family out of the house and call 911!
Fires can ignite with remarkable speed. As my sister will tell you, she is so grateful her family is safe. “Things” can be replaced; people cannot. Please share with your readers how important it is to be safe, neat, clean and tidy when using the clothes dryer!
Signed, Learned A Sad, But Important Lesson the Hard Way

You just did. Thank you very much for the critically important tips on dryer safety. Your willingness to take the time to share this could save property and even lives. Please extend my sympathy to your sister and her family for their loss. I’ll be posting your letter on my web site: www.thelaundrydoctor.com

Top	Want Bright without Fright

Dear Laundry Doctor
What’s the deal with bleach? I’ve always used chlorine bleach on my white laundry, but I can’t use it on colors for fear of leaving white spots. How do “color-safe” bleaches work? Are they really color-safe? I want my laundry to look its best, but I don’t want to ruin anything by using the wrong product.!
Signed,
Want Bright without Fright

Fear not! We can delve into a little high school chemistry lesson to explain away your concerns. First, let me clarify that using any kind of bleach, whether chlorinated or oxygenated (color-safe) to treat a stain does not remove the stain – that is, it doesn’t lift the stain out of the fabric. Bleaches pull the color from the stain itself (chlorinated) or cause a chemical reaction that alters the makeup of the stain (oxygenated) so the stain isn’t as apparent. For this reason, there are some drawbacks to using bleach, especially chlorine bleach, as a stain treatment. More on that in a moment.

Chlorine bleach is referred to in the industry as a “reducing bleach”, because it acts in the wash by removing a molecule of oxygen. The reason whites can look dull is because laundry detergents can leave a colored residue on them, and the chlorine bleach removes the color from that residue. The problem is that over time the chlorine bleach can leave white clothes looking dull or grayish. That’s because repeated washing of those whites with chlorine bleach can actually pull the white color from the garments! Think about it. Cotton isn’t really white. It’s treated with whitening agents to make it a bright, pure white. The problem with using chlorine bleach to remove a stain is that exposure to oxygen can reverse the reduction reaction that was caused by the chlorine and allow the stain to reappear.

So you may be thinking, “Is there any reason to use chlorine bleach?” At Sel-Dale Laundry, we almost never use it for the aforementioned reasons. I recently had a laundry order for a local restaurateur in which there was a very stubborn, set-in stain in a white tablecloth. Because the stain was set in the fabric, I couldn’t use a treatment to actually lift it out, so I had to resort to chlorine bleach to hide it. The problem is, with subsequent washings that stain will almost certainly return.

Oxygenated bleaches or “color-safe” bleaches add a molecule of oxygen, and the ensuing reaction alters the appearance of the stain, making it less apparent, or even unapparent, without harming the color of the garment. Oxygenated bleaches can make clothes appear brighter, but the problem with using them in stain removal is, once again, that they aren’t actually lifting the stain out of the fabric. For example, you can wash a garment that has been stained with fuel like gasoline using oxygenated bleach. It will look bright and stain-free, but the odor of the fuel will still be there, because the stain is still there.

To conclude, chlorine bleach is best used as a last resort to remove a stubborn, set-in stain from white fabric. Oxygenated bleach is a good solution for making laundry bright and fresh-looking. For stain removal techniques, stay tuned to this column and be sure to visit my web site at www.thelaundrydoctor.com

Top	Making a Smaller Footprint

Dear Laundry Doctor
In past Laundry Doctor columns, I have read numerous tips for being more “green” when doing the laundry. Would you summarize these tips? I’d like to share them with my friends and family, as we are all aware of the need to be more responsible with our resources and our environment. Thank you!
Signed,
Making a Smaller Footprint

Here are some easy and, best of all, cost-effective tips. There are many new products on the market that are eco-friendly. Look for those that are concentrated and bio-degradable. Many are even derived from plant sources. My sister loves Trader Joe’s liquid laundry detergent. It’s very inexpensive – less than .10 per load – and she reports that she seldom has to use fabric softener, because the detergent contains natural softening agents. (You can even try white vinegar in place of fabric softener!) Remember to use the minimum amount the instructions recommend. One of the biggest causes of fabric wear is too much detergent in the wash. It builds up over time, leaving garments dull and dingy, and the extra just goes down the drain (and into the wastewater!).

Try oxygenated bleach instead of chlorine bleach, and use methods such as soaking to remove stains. Visit www.thelaundrydoctor.com for some great, eco-friendly stain removal tips that use common household products.

Dry clothes to damp-dry stage, then hang them until fully dry. This not only saves energy, but reduces wear and tear on garments. This method also reduces the need for ironing! If you have the space, line-dry your laundry outside. There’s nothing nicer than line-dried, sun-kissed sheets on the bed!

Even those without yard space can purchase an inexpensive drying rack and set it up indoors. This is a great way to dry more delicate garments too.

Cleaning your dryer exhaust also increases the efficiency of the dryer it will speed up the drying time and hence reduce the natural gas used to dry the load.

Consider investing in an energy-efficient, front loading washer, even if your current machine still works. The savings in water alone is staggering – up to 7,000 gallons per year – and these machines use one-third less energy. Check out energystar.gov for more information.

Thanks to you and your family and friends for your efforts on behalf of the planet!

Top	Itching to Know

Dear Laundry Doctor
My son has very sensitive skin, and some recent bouts of contact dermatitis prompted our doctor to recommend that I, among other things, stop using fabric softener. How can I get my wash soft and static free without it?
Signed,
Itching to Know

Dear Itching (and I hope nobody in your household really IS itching!)

First some history. Fabric softener was originally made as a by-product from horses’ hooves and the rendering of dead horses. I know. Eeeww. Over the years the formula has changed, and now it is made solely from petroleum products. Many different variations have evolved, from dryer sheets to liquids, with options ranging from different scents to odor-free and hypoallergenic. Even in the case of the latter, people can still react adversely, because fabric softeners stay in your clothing. Here’s why:

Fabric softeners lay a thin film of oil on your garments that make them feel soft and prevent static electricity from building up on the loose fiber ends. Normally, in dry conditions, these loose fiber ends attract a charge – like lightning does – from the air. The electric charge also acts like a magnet causing garments to stick together. By leaving a thin film on the garment the small, loose, fiber ends lay flat on the garment making it soft and smooth and unable to attract free electrons.

While all this science is really neat, lots of people just like you would rather not use fabric softener, due to health reasons, concern for the environment, and cost. If you choose not to use a fabric softener, try simply adding about a half-cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle. The acid in the vinegar will reduce the pH in the water, thereby reducing the dry, hard feeling of the garments. It will also cut down on static cling and help remove odor and freshen the wash. The vinegar smell will disappear in the dryer. I hope this helps you and your family! Thanks for writing, and remember to visit me online at WWW.thelaundrydoctor.com for more great laundry tips.

Laundry Doc

Top	Itching to Know

Dear Laundry Doctor
In past columns, you’ve mentioned enzymes for washing and stain treating. I also notice that a lot of the detergents in the grocery store say something about enzymes, and that these are usually the name-brand detergents that cost more. What are enzymes, and how do they work? Are they safe for the environment? Do I really need them to get my laundry clean?
Signed,
LaundryDad

Dear LaundryDad;

By definition, enzymes are any complex chemical produced by living cells that is a biochemical catalyst. Think of them as digesters: they are the catalyst for digesting stains. In terms of laundry, there are four types of enzyme, classed by what kind they digest: 1) protein (like blood stains); 2) oils; 3) organic stains (like grass or tomato juice); 4) the ends of fibers. The latter group actually lifts stains by “digesting” a tiny amount of fabric.

Enzymes are why you have detergents that run from cheap to pricey. Enzymes cost more, but they also do a better job of safely cleaning your garments, preserving their color and texture. A better quality detergent is an investment in the life of your laundry.

Enzymes work best between 80 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit. You may recall that “cold” water from the standpoint of laundry is considered to be 87 degrees or below, “warm” is 87-112, and “hot” is 112 +. Of course you want to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when you launder a garment, but warm water will most effectively activate enzymes and lift stains. Interestingly, enzymes “digest” something about every 7 minutes, which is why soaking a stained garment in warm water and detergent is a great way to remove stains.

Enzymes are environmentally friendly, and I know you will notice that many of the major manufacturers of detergent are reacting to concern over the environment by producing “greener” products. So spend a little extra on detergent that contains enzymes. Your clothes will thank you for it!

Thanks for writing, and don’t forget to visit www.thelaundrydoctor.com for past articles and more great tips for a clean, bright wash!

Laundry Doc

Top	Frugal but Fastidious

Dear Laundry Doctor
I have several blouses, skirts and slacks that are labeled “dry clean only”. In the interest of saving money, can’t I just launder them myself on gentle cycle?
Signed,
Frugal but Fastidious

Dear Frugal;

I don’t think it’s a good idea to launder your “dry clean only” items yourself. Here’s a great opportunity to talk about dry cleaning: What it is, what it does, and when you should use it. First, “dry” cleaning is sort of a misnomer. Dry cleaning employs a machine that looks like a very large commercial front-loading washer. Garments are placed inside with a dry cleaning solvent. The solvent acts to clean the garment, then the machine actually recovers the solvent and distills it for subsequent uses. So a little bit of solvent goes a long way.

Many of today’s synthetic fabrics are derived from petroleum-based products. They respond better to this solvent-based cleaning method, because detergent and water break down the oils that give the fabrics a nice feel and movement. The same thing goes for woolens, which get their rich texture and soft touch from the lanolin in sheep’s wool. These items will actually retain their original quality much longer if you opt for solvent-based cleaning.

I like to think of “dry” cleaning in terms of “professional cleaning”, because your laundry specialist will know how best to clean your finest garments thoroughly and without damage. In fact, if you took one of the items you mentioned to a professional cleaner, he or she might know of and opt for an even more effective and safe cleaning method. Solvent-based cleaning is just one of the many tools at the disposal of the laundry professional.

In the interest of preserving your finer garments for extended wear, I recommend using the services of a professional cleaner. In the end, you are protecting your investment in your clothes and saving yourself time.

Thanks for writing, and don’t forget to visit www.thelaundrydoctor.com for past articles and more great tips for a clean, bright wash!

Laundry Doc

Top

Steamed

Dear Laundry Doctor
I took my blouse to the dry cleaners, and they wanted to charge me triple what I paid for cleaning my husband’s dress shirts. Why would they do that?
Signed,
Steamed

Dear Steamed;

I think I can best explain this with a laundry history lesson. Back in the day, when almost all men wore tailored dress shirts, (Even to mow the grass…Remember Leave it to Beaver?) some bright person invented a machine that quickly and efficiently pressed men’s shirts. This process was facilitated by the fact that men’s dress shirts have straight, clean lines and seams, so they could be laid neatly on the machine and pressed in minutes with a few deft movements by a skilled operator.

Women’s blouses have more detail, and their seams have more shape to follow the curves of a woman’s body. Therefore, you must press them by hand, taking care to keep those curvy seams flat and smooth and working around any details such as pleating or shirring. This takes a lot longer, and it is more labor-intensive, hence the greater cost. There are several tools launderers can employ to shape women’s blouses. An interesting one is called a “Susie”. It is a metal, cloth-covered frame in the shape of a woman’s torso. The damp-dry blouse is drawn over the Susie, and warm air is blown through it. This drys the blouse and preserves its shape. Again, this takes a little longer, and so it costs more. Still, if you want those blouses to retain their fresh, new appearance and last for a long time, I think it is worth it.

Thank you for giving me the opportunity to write about this subject. I’m sure you aren’t the only woman out there who has felt the extra charge was less than fair! Please visit www.thelaundrydoctor.com for more laundry topics.

Laundry Doc

Top	Foiled by Oil

Dear Laundry Doctor
I have a favorite little cotton tee shirt I wore a few nights back while preparing dinner for some friends. I got a splash of olive oil right on the front of it. I used my go-to stain treatments: Dawn dishwashing liquid followed by a warm soak, then laundering. It didn’t remove the oil! One of my dinner guests called to see if I had been able to get the shirt clean, and we had a discussion about the frustrations we’ve experienced in trying to remove oil from clothes – especially cottons! Why is it so hard, and can anything be done? I have since taken the tee shirt to a dry cleaner. Sadly, you can still see the oil spot. Help!!
Signed,
Steamed

Dear Foiled (and I hope you are NOT foiled, as we’ll see….!);

I empathize. I too love to cook, and I have gotten several of my own garments stained by various oils. Oil just seems to bond with certain fabrics, especially cotton, perhaps because of the natural oils that occur in the fabric.

Of course the first step is to treat the stain as quickly as possible, and you did the right thing by selecting a product that breaks down oils. The longer you wait to treat any stain, the more likely it will not come out. You also soaked your tee shirt, which was a good move. Unfortunately, the oil remained.

Sometimes the solvents used in a dry cleaning machine are very effective on oil stains, because they are petroleum based, which upholds the rule that like removes like. Still, if a stain is set in, perhaps because it has been laundered and even dried before the dry-cleaning is attempted, it can seem hopeless.

I am very excited to tell you about a new product that has just come on the market for laundry professionals. It isn’t available to the general public, and it isn’t widely known in the industry yet. It’s called Pull-Out. You spray it on the stain, allow it to dry, and literally brush the residue away. No more oil spot! I used it on my own garments recently with incredible results! If you can drop by my facility at 662 Selby Avenue in St. Paul, I’ll see what I can do with your favorite tee shirt.

I hope this helps you and your friends! Thanks for writing, and remember to visit me online at www.thelaundrydoctor.com for more great laundry tips.

Laundry Doc

P.S.: For my readers outside the St. Paul area, ask your laundry pro about Pull-Out for oil stain removal, and thanks for reading!

Top	In Disbelief

Dear Laundry Doctor
My sister recently bought a linen sheath dress in a deep burgundy color. She brought it to me for advice after she got a small chocolate stain on it at a party. I was astonished to read the garment care instructions on the dress’s tag: Do not wash. Do not dry clean. Spot removal not recommended. Is this some kind of joke? I told her to take it to a professional cleaner. She did, and the cleaner refused to try to remove the stain without having my sister sign a waiver. Have you ever heard of such a thing? This dress cost my sister nearly $300.00!
Signed,
In Disbelief

Dear Dis:

A couple of weeks ago, I’d have thought your story was strange, but in fact, a customer just brought me a very expensive pair of black trousers with the same basic care instructions as those you found on your sister’s linen sheath. In spite of the care label, the customer wanted me to clean the trousers, and I did indeed have him sign a waiver. I washed the slacks in cold water using a very gentle technique, and they did run very badly. They are not unusable, but they do not have the same bright, crisp appearance or deep color they had before they were laundered.

I’m glad you wrote, because this calls to mind an important topic: Always read the care instructions on a garment before purchasing it. This is especially true for finer garments, which often have a cost – or opportunity cost if you will – to owning them. If a garment must be dry cleaned, you have to factor in that cost. If it must dry flat, like many sweaters, do you have a sweater drying rack and a place to set it up? If it requires ironing, will you really be willing to press it, or will you be willing to pay to have it ironed? If not, perhaps you shouldn’t purchase it.

Oddly enough, some garments are not recommended for any kind of cleaning, which makes them more or less disposable! In this case, the buyer must keep in mind if it is really worth it to spend money on something that may only be worn one time. Reading labels is a critically important part of making a garment purchase.

I hope this helps you and your friends! Thanks for writing, and remember to visit me online at www.thelaundrydoctor.com for more great laundry tips.

Laundry Doctor

Top	Cowhide Cowgirl

Dear Laundry Doctor
Help! While lunching with some friends, I spilled something (soup?) on the lapel of my leather blazer. I am afraid to have it cleaned, because my friend took her leather jeans to a cleaner, and when she got them back they were three inches too short. Can leather be cleaned without ruining it? How is it done?
Signed,
Cowhide Cowgirl

Dear Cowgirl;

Excellent question! I am sorry to hear about your friend’s jeans, but I’ll bet I know what happened. Let me explain the leather cleaning process, which can indeed be done safely and with good results.

First of all, when we say “leather”, we mean the hide of a cow, calf, lamb, pig, etc. It can have a smooth finish or a suede (rough) finish. Leather is prepared for garment construction through a tanning process which removes the hair, preserves the hide, and results in a soft, supple product. It is treated with a coating (like silicone) to give it protection from stains and water.

A leather garment can be washed just like any fabric. It is immersed in a washing machine with chemicals that remove soil and conditioners that protect and soften. The trick to preserving the leather garment’s shape and size is in how it is handled after washing. A leather garment must be hung or dried flat and allowed to air dry thoroughly. Once dry, it will be very stiff. Only after it is completely dry, the garment is tumbled in a warm dryer. This process relaxes the hide and restores its soft, pliable texture and finish. An inexperienced or careless cleaner might put a damp leather item in the dryer to restore it to softness and end up shrinking it, which I think is what happened to your friend’s jeans.

When you take your leather blazer to be cleaned, don’t be afraid to shop around and ask questions. Call shops that advertise professional leather cleaning, and ask them about their experience. How many leather garments do they clean in a month? How long have they been in business? Don’t be afraid to ask them to describe the method they use, and be sure they explain the drying process. Be prepared to pay a premium for leather cleaning and to wait up to a week to get your blazer back. Here’s why. Some leather garments lose color in the washing process. An experienced leather cleaner will be able to dye such garments back to their original shade, but this process takes time. Again, it’s the air-drying that is critical. Still, a good leather garment is an investment, and the cleaning process not only restores your investment but also re-protects it, since the final step is a treatment of silicone or a similar stain and water repellant.

A word about fur garments. Fur is hair attached to a hide, but it cannot be washed. The chemicals used in the cleaning and conditioning of a leather garment will almost always result in the hair follicles releasing the hair from the hide. If you purchase a garment with fur trim, such as a jacket with a fur collar or a parka with a fur-trimmed hood, be sure the garment is constructed in such a way as to allow you to unzip the fur collar or trim before washing.

Thanks for bringing up a great topic! I hope you and all my Laundry Doctor readers have great results with leather cleaning. I’ll bet your blazer will look like new. Keep visiting www.thelaundrydoctor.com for all your laundry needs!

Laundry Doc